The tour of Alsace's best white wine vineyards takes an intriguing turn here: the Kaefferkopf vineyard, famed since the 1300's -  straddles the long hillside between the village of Ammerschwihr and Meyer-Fonné’s winery in nearby Katzenthal. From this special terroir of sandstone marl, Félix Meyer produces both Riesling and Pinot Gris with stunning complexity and age-worthiness. One hallmark of wines from Kaefferkopf is that the soil signature is usually even stronger than the variety. This 2020 is wonderful —fermented dry (4.5 grams RS), full-bodied in style, I can't think of much better at the table in a multitude of gastronomic settings as this has a kaleidoscopic range.

- Andrew Guard