In 2021, the tiny yields from these old, millerandage-affected grapes were further compromised by bouts of frost and hail, so you get a wealth of power and density from the fruit yet also the freshness from the vintage’s acidity: a great balance indeed. The nose is lively and stylish, with an abundance of white fleshed stone fruits and citrus oils as well as hints of flinty, smoky and lees-derived flavour. The palate has a depth of pure white fruit contained within a fresh and mineral framework, and just the right balance of oak to assist. The finish has impressive length, carried by fine tension and mineral energy. In layman’s terms: a ’21 of unusual depth and balance.